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Named by Linnaeus in 1735 in honour of the Jesuit priest and naturalisti Georg Josef Kamel, Camellia is a genus originating principally from China but with a range covering a big area of South East Asia. The precise number of species is not clear but it is someplace around 100. Camellia is an primary mercantile genus because of one species, Camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea is made. Most gardeners recognise two main groups of camellias, the autumn flowering and the spring flowering. However, it is not rather that simple. Whenever a genus of a great deal of species (such as There are four main camellia groups: Japonica, Reticulata, Sasanqua and Hybrid, with a number of littler groups based around less mutual species, such as Camellia hiemalis, and inter-specific hybrids, such as Camellia × williamsii (Camellia japonica × Camellia saluensis). It’s a ordinarily held faith amid gardeners that Sansanquas are the autumn flowering camellias while the rest are spring flowerers. That’s not actually true, surely the Sasanquas are ordinarily the basi to bloom but with careful selection and siting it is possible to have more or less ceaseless flowering from early autumn to late spring. Cultivation Camellias are oftentimes related with rhododendrons and azaleas and, while not that almost related, they surely prefer similar conditions. This is not at all surprising as they come from similar climates and may oftentimes be found growing together in the wild. Camellias are in general less tolerant of uttermost cold than the hardiest rhododendrons but they are by no means fussy plants. Most species and hybrids are hardy allround the country, necessitating no shelter except perchance in very cold winter areas, and the summers here are To get the best out of your camellias it is primary that you follow the same soil preparation methods as commended for rhododendrons. Camellias have more inviolable and deeper roots but they still require the same moist, humus filled, loose, well-oxygenated topsoil if they are to thrive. Likewise regular mulching is always beneficial. Camellias prefer a neutral to acid soil and will not tolerate the uttermost acidity that most rhododendrons will. On highly acid soils the addition of little amounts of dolomite lime will not only increase the pH but will concede posing no difficulty uptake of nutrients. Once established most camellias seem to get by rather well without too much attention but they are subject to the same chlorosis troubles as rhododendrons so occasional supplementary feeding is recommended. Containerised camellias ought to be fed regularly as they are far more subject to deficiencies due to their fixed root spread. Camellias do best in sheltered positions in light shade or where they get only morning sun. This is not so much for the plant’s sake as the flowers’. The plants will tolerate exposed sunny internet sites but the flowers won’t. Too dense shade will advertize lank growth and reduce flowering. Too sunny and the flowers will burn and drop prematurely. A website that is exposed to strong winds will dramatically shorten the life of any flowers but specially camellias. Disbudding Many camellias set big quantities of flower buds that often times result in densely crowded little bloom. Thinning out the more densely packed and weaker flower buds will construct more spectacular blooms of better shape. Propagation Camellias are not always easy to propagate without specialised equipment. Seed germinates well but is of fixed usefulness as it may only be used to raise new cultivars or to propagate species. Selected forms will have to be disseminated vegetatively. Cuttings must be taken just as the new growth is hardening off. This is normally around the end of November. Take new tip growth cuttings that are regarding 100-150 mm long and follow the procedures outlined in the propagation chapter. The cuttings may take various months to strike without mist or bottom heat. Layering is very successful with camellias but oftentimes there are no sections close sufficient to ground level to layer. In such cases aerial layering is a reliable, if slow, method. Occasionally a camellia cultivar fails to carry out well on it is own roots. In which case grafting onto a more vigorous stock may be necessary. Standard camellias are closely always produced by grafting rather than plainly training a frequent stem. Cleft grafting is the general method used, however, saddle grafts and side wedges will work too. Budding is seldom employed but there is no reason why it shouldn’t be successful. Specialised methods, such as seed grafts, are occasionally applied but these are for authenti fanciers that are prepared to experiment. Pests And Diseases Camellias are comparatively disease free but you may now and again encounter one of the following problems. Viral diseases These are rather mutual amongst camellias, in fact, viruses are at times on purpose introduced to obtain variegated flowers and foliage. The most mutual virus shows up as a bright yellow leaf margin. This is known as virus induced variegation. In minor cases it does little injure but it may weaken a plant by reducing the amount of available chlorophyll. Virus sicknesses cannot be cured, once infected the plant remains infected. Phytophthora root rot This impairment of normal physiological function affects a good deal of types of plants, particularly those that prefer acid woodland conditions. This fungus impairment of normal physiological function kills the plant’s roots, which leads to the characteristic wilted aspect and ultimately death. Generally the sensations or changes are not apparent until too late. Prevention through ensuring that the soil is well drained is the best method. Plants may occasionally be saved by washing off the soil, removing the dead roots, completely wet with fungicide then replanting in a well-drained position but it’s seldom worth the effort. Leaf gall A fungal impairment of normal physiological function similar to that seen on evergreen azaleas most times occurs on camellias. It causes a thickening and distorting of the leaves, which is in the end become white with fungal spores. Remove any affected leaves and spray the plant with a fungicide. Do not grant affected leaves to drop near the plant. Petal blight This fungal disease cause the flowers to degenerate to watery mush and may harm much of the crop. Control with fungicides prior to bud break and remove any fallen petals from around infected bushes. Die-back This may be a serious, even fatal, problem. The foliage of young sectionalizations wilts and browns then the stem begins to die back from the tip. A canker gives rise to that at last ringbarks the stem causing it is death. If the cankers disseminate to the main stems the plant may die. Treatment with fungicides will support but is not wholly successful. Overcrowding, poor drainage and poor ventilation may all bestow to this problem as well as making the disseminate of the sickness easier. Camellias are in general not attacked by any specially strange insect pests, just the run of the mill, aphids, scale, caterpillars, leaf rollers and thrips. The ordinary control measures are effective on camellias too. Bagworms may cause substantial harm at times. The leaf covered silken bags (see illustration) are made by the larvae and the flightless adult females of the moth Liothula omnivora. The larvae feed from within the bag, which they carry around with them for shelter and camouflage. Hand picking is the simplest control, the use of insecticides is not warranted except in cases of severe infestation. Training Besides their normal bushy habit numerous camellias are suitable subjects for training. The most mutual forms are the standard and the espalier. Standards may be developed in two ways. The easiest is to select a young plant with a single straight stem and merely remove the lower foliage and any side shoots as they appear. Stake the main stem as it grows and once it has reached the desired height nip out the tip growth to induce the branching that will at long last form the head. The procedure may be speeded up by grafting but the mechanics are not as simple. Select a vigorous upright plant that will quickly fabricate the usual trunk and graft your chosen cultivar onto it at the desired height. Cleft grafts are the preferent method for camellias but I have found side wedge grafts to be successful. Grafting is the only practical way to give rise to a weeping standard. Espaliering is just a matter of selecting an suitable plant and having the goodnatured tolerance to wait long sufficient to see the results. There are assorted methods of training the segmentations to achieve the best coverage but most camellias with thin pliable stems (primarily Sasanquas) may be espaliered with little effort. Remember though, camellias are not natural climbers, espaliers need to be secured to the structure versus which they are growing. Other special forms. Camellias may make effective hedges, either tightly clipped or grown informally. As might be expected of a genus that holds the tea plant camellias may withstand general trimming when actively growing. Some camellias are suitable for use as ground covers but ordinarily only while they are young. In time all but the most prostrate forms will develop into mounding bushes rather than unfeigned ground covers. Pegging the sectionalizations down as the plants grow is the only way to ascertain this doesn’t happen. Camellias in containers Camellias adjust well to container growing but they are quick to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Nothing looks less likeable than a badly chlorotic camellia in a tiny pot. However, with regular fertilising and the right sized containers camellias will thrive and bloom to a considerable degree in pots. As with all container plants, do not forget that their roots are far less insulated from the elements than those of plants in the open ground. Make sure containerised camellias get regular water in summer and in cold winter areas move the containers to sheltered positions for winter to refrain from having the soil freeze solid. Flower forms Camellias are available in various dissimilar flower forms. The descriptions in this book are held as simple as possible but on occasion the technical terms will have to be used. The terms single, semi-doubleand double are intimate and somewhat self-explanatory but most of the following terms are peculiar to camellia cultivation. Anemone A style with big outer petals and massed little central petaloids. Peony (paeony) and informal double Large outer petals and littler loosely clustered central petals and petaloids. The more to a complete degree petalled flowers are known as full peony form. Rose form double A double flower that opens completely to disclose the stamens, like a totally blown rose. Formal double This flower type has utterly arranged concentric circles of neatly overlapping petals. Some have the petals in a very distinctly specified spiral pattern. There are likewise rules governing the terms used to describe the size of flowers but as most non-specialist gardeners find these to be more mixing up than utile they have not been strictly adhered to. Species and cultivars The following selection of species and cultivars includes those most frequent for garden use or that have interesting or strange features. They are separated into hybrid groups. Species These are the most usual or influential of the species but they are not widely available in nurseries, most gardeners preferring the hybrids. Camellia chrysantha (China) A yellow camellia was a long sought after intent of plant breeders, accordingly the fundamentally white cultivars with optimistic names such as ‘Brushfield’s Yellow’. However, in 1980 a real yellow camellia was found in the Guangxi province of China. It flowered for the primary time in the West in 1984 and has since been the subject of outstanding interest and speculation amid camellia growers. It is a big species that may reach 5 m high. The big leaves are deep green and to a great extent veined. The bright yellow flowers are only in regards to 60 mm diameter but it is not the size of the flowers but their potential for hybridising that initially had breeders so enthused. Reasonably hardy but alternatively chooses consistent cool to moderate temperatures, intolerant of extremes. Camellia societies have a few plants of this species but even now it is not in general available through garden centres. Camellia forrestii (China, Vietnam) A huge shrub or little tree native with narrow elliptical leaves and little white flowers that are mildly fragrant. Early to mid season. Camellia fraterna (China) Grows to with regards to 5 m high. Small elliptical leaves. 25 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and prominent gold anthers. Slightly fragrant. Not wholly hardy. Flowers mid season. Camellia granthamiana (Hong Kong) Very rare in the wild; known, until recently, from just one plant found in 1955. It may be a natural hybrid rather than a unfeigned species. Grows to regarding 3 m high. Deep green to a considerable degree veined elliptical leaves up to 200 mm long. Creamy white flowers up to 150 mm diameter with massed golden stamens. Flowers early. Not completely hardy. Camellia hiemalis (Japan) Not known in the wild and probably a natural hybrid among Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Grows to regarding 3.5 m high. 30 mm diameter pale pink flowers with golden stamens. Small to medium sized elliptical leaves. Flowers early. Camellia kissi (North East India to Southern China) May grow as high as 12 m but normally consideably smaller. Medium sized narrow leaves. Small white flowers that are normally fragrant. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia lutchuensis (Southern Japan including Okinawa) Grows to with regards to 3 m high. Small leaves regarding 40 mm long. Very fragrant 50 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and gold anthers. Not always easy to grow and not wholly hardy. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia japonica (Japan, Eastern China and Korea) The parent of a immense number of cultivars. May grow to 15 m high in the wild. Broad deep green elliptical leaves up to 125mm long. The flower colour is variable but is commonly red. Easily grown. Flowers mid season. There are assorted cultivated forms. Camellia oleifera (Northern India, Southern China and South East Asia) Grows to when it comes to 7 m high. Medium sized elliptical leaves with little or no serrations. Small white flowers with yellow stamens and somewhat twisted petals. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia pitardii (Southern China) Grows to when it comes to 7 m high. Medium sized to a great extent veined leaves up to 100 mm long. Small white, pink or white flushed pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late. Camellia reticulata (Southern China) Extensively used in hybridising. grows up to 15 m high in the wild. Large wide elliptical leaves with prominent veins (reticulate). 75 mm diameter mid pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late. Camellia salicifolia (Hong Kong and Taiwan) Grows to in regards to 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical to oblong leaves with a very slight tomentum. Loose white flowers with white stamens. Mild fragrance. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia saluenensis (Southern China) Grows to when it comes to 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical leaves. 50 mm diameter white to mid pink flowers with little golden stamens. May be single or semi-double. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia sasanqua (Japan and Ryukyu Islands) Grows to in regards to 5 m high. The leaves are around 55 mm long , ordinarily narrow and without doubt or question pointed. 50 mm diameter white to pale pink flowers with yellow stamens. Occasionally more or less fragrant. Flowers early. Camellia sinensis (India to China and South East Asia) The tea plant is the most commercially crucial camellia. May grow to 15 m high but ordinarily held much smaller. Leaf size is variable; they are commonly around 125 mm long but in mild moist climates they may be up to 225 mm long × 75 mm wide, to a considerable degree veined. White flowers (occasionally pale pink), regarding 40 mm diameter with yellow stamens. Flowers early. Camellia transnokensis (Taiwan) An upright bush to regarding 3 m high. Small bronze green leaves. Clusters of very little (25 mm diameter) white flowers with white stamens and golden anthers. Pink buds. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia tsai (Southern China, Burma and Vietnam) Grows to with regards to 10 m high in the wild but ordinarily far littler in gardens. 90 mm long shiny bronze green elliptical leaves. Slight weeping growth habit. Clusters of little white flushed pink flowers. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season. Not totally hardy. Sasanqua and Hiemalis A group of mainly early flowering plants (autumn to late winter) that is made up of varieties and hybrids of three species; Camellia sasanqua, Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis. Akebono Small deep green leaves. Single mid pink flowers. Excellent hedge or espalier. Bonanza Medium to big semi-double deep red flowers. Long flowering season. Medium sized plant, upright growth. Good in tubs. Bonsai Baby Small deep red double flowers. Low, somewhat propagating growth habit. Chansonette Large deep pink double flowers with more or less ruffled petals. A densely foliage medium sized bush. Suitable for most styles of training. Cotton Candy Large soft pink semi-double flowers with somewhat ruffled petals. Strong growing but inclined to be rather open and gains from regular trimming to shape. Exquisite Large very pale pink single flowers with ruffled and lobed petals. Long sectionalizations make it well-suited to espaliering. Hiryu-see Kanjiro Jennifer Susan Soft mid pink loosely petalled semi-double flowers. Very densely foliage compact growth. Makes a good hedge or espalier. Kanjiro Often sold as ‘Hiryu’. Deep cerise pink single to semi-double flowers with lighter coloured centre. Dark green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mine No Yuki Medium sized white to cream semi-double flowers with ruffled petals. Loose pendulous growth habit. Plantation Pink Large mid pink single flowers. Very strong growing and makes a quick hedge. Setsugekka Large white semi-double with ruffled, more or less incurving petals. Strong growing upright bush. Showa No Sakae Medium sized light to mid pink loose semi-double flowers. Distinctly weeping to horizontal growth habit. may be used in hanging baskets. Sparkling Burgundy Small to medium sized deep pinkish red double flowers. Long flowering season. Vigorous grower. Suitable for most training styles. Yuletide Small bright red single flowers with prominent golden stamens. Long flowering season. Dense compact growth. Does well in tubs. Japonica The species forms and hybrids of Camellia japonica are amid the most popular and widely grown camellias. Also included in this group are the Higo hybrids. These many times ancient forms from Japan are not widely grown in New Zealand but a few are available. The following is a selection of a good deal of of the most usual Japonicas. Ave Maria (1956) Pale pink medium sized formal double. Dense compact growth. Early to mid season. Bambino (1959) Small coral pink anemone form with well-defined petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season. Berenice Boddy (1946) Medium sized light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Flowers mid season. Betty Sheffield Supreme (1960) Large loose white or very pale pink double with petals edged in deep pink. A beauteous picotee effect but rather variable. A sport of ‘Betty Sheffield’ (1949). A vigorous, yet compact bush. Flowers mid season. Blood of China (1928) Medium sized deep pinkish red semi-double to peony form. Often mildly scented. Strong grower but compact. Late flowering. Bob Hope (1972) Large deep blackish red semi-double. Very intense flower colour and deep green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mid season to late. Bob’s Tinsie (1962) Small deep red anemone form with a white centre. Upright, very dense and bushy. Flowers mid season. Brushfield’s Yellow (1968) Medium sized anemone form with white outer petals and creamy yellow petaloid centre. Strong growing but densely foliaged. Flowers mid season. C.M. Hovey (1853) Medium sized deep red formal double. Upright growth. Late flowering. Can Can (1961) Medium sized light pink peony form with deep cerise pink edged petals and veins. Upright growth. Flowers mid season. Debutante (around 1900) Medium sized light pink full paeony form. A strong growing densely foliage bush. Leaves may be a lighter green than most camellias. One of the most widely planted camellias. Flowers mid season. Desire (1977) Medium sized light pink formal double with deeper coloured petal edges. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season. Dolly Dyer (1973) Small bright red anemone form with a densely packed petaloid centre. A medium sized densely foliaged bush. Flowers early to mid season. Elegans Supreme (1960) Large deep pink anemone form with finely serrated petal edges. One of various sports of the old cultivar ‘Elegans’ (1831). Large wavy edged leaves. A strong growing but compact bush. Flowers early to mid season. Grand Slam (1962) Large deep red semi-double or anemone form. Slightly fragrant. Deep green leaves. A very strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season. Guest of Honor (1955) Large mid to deep pink loose semi-double to peony form. Upright densely foliaged bush. Heavy flowering. Blooms mid season. Guillio Nuccio (1956) Very huge deep coral pink semi-double with prominent stamens. The petals have wavy edges. Strong growing and very popular. Flowers mid season. Also available in a white and red variegated flower form. K. Sawada (1940) Large white rose form or formal double. Dense bushy growth. Flowers mid season. Kramer’s Supreme (1957) Large bright red full peony form. Usually fragrant. Vigorous yet compact growth. Flowers mid season. Laurie Bray (1955) Medium to huge light pink flowers that may be single or partially petaloid semi-double. Heavy flowering, tough and adaptable. Rather open growth that gains from shaping when young. Flowers mid season. Man Size (1961) Small white anemone form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush if shaped when young but may other than as supposed or expected tend to more or less open growth. Flowers to a great extent around mid season. Margaret Davis (1961) Medium sized informal double. White with petals edged deep pink to orange red. Upright growth. Flowers mid season. Mark Alan (1958) Large deep purplish red semi-double or peony form. Narrow petals with a petaloid centre. Upright growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season. Midnight (1963) Medium sized deep red semi-double to anemone form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. Mrs D.W. Davis (1954) Very big bright pink semi-double. Densely foliaged vigorous upright growing bush. Flowers mid season. Nuccio’s Pearl (1977) Medium sized very pale pink flushed mid pink formal double. An beautiful ‘airbrushed’ colour effect that intensifies towards the centre and edges of the flower. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. Pink Pagoda (1963) Medium to huge mid pink formal double. Slightly wavy edged petals. An upright bush. Flowers mid season. Prima Ballerina (1983) Medium to big semi-double. White base colour washed with soft mid pink. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season to late. Roger Hall (1979) Medium sized bright red formal double. A strong growing upright bush. Starts early and flowers over a long season. San Dimas (1971) Medium to big deep red petaloid semi-double. Dense compact bush. Flowers early to mid season. Tiffany (1962) Very huge loose peony form. Soft mid pink with deeper tones. Vigorous yet compact bush. Flowers mid season to late. Reticulata Reticulatas are normally regarded as being less hardy than other camellias but most survive New Zealand winters unscathed. Barbara Clark (1958) Medium sized mid pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Starts to flower early and proceeds over a long season. Brian (1958) Medium sized deep pink semi-double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Buddha (1948) Large deep pink semi-double flowers with wavy edged petals. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season. Dr. Clifford Parks (1971) Large bright red flower. The form is very variable, it ranges from semi-double to peony to anemone form. Flowers mid season. Grand Jury (1962) Large salmon pink peony form. A huge open bush that gains from pruning to shape when young. Flowers mid season. Lasca Beauty (1973) Very big light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower that is inclined to become a little open. Flowers mid season. Pavlova (1978) Very huge bright red semi-double. A strong disseminating bush. Makes a good espalier. Flowers mid season to late. Phyl Doak (1958) Medium to huge pale pink semi-double. A dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and proceeds over a long season. Sugar Dream (1984) Medium sized mid pink anemone form. Upright growth, inclined to be more or less open but gains from trimming to shape when young. Early flowering. Valley M. Knudsen (1958) Large deep pin semi-double to peony form. Strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season to late. × williamsii hybrids This somewhat diverse group of hybrids results from fertilising Camellia saluensis, or a hybrid thereof, with pollen from Camellia japonica. Anticipation (1962) Large deep pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season. Ballet Queen (1975) Large salmon pink peony form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush. Flowers mid season to late. Debbie (1965) Large bright mid pink semi-double to full peony form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. One of the most popular cultivars. Donation (1941) Large mid pink semi-double with darker veining. Vigorous yet compact. Starts early mid season and proceeds over a long season. Dreamboat (1976) A huge formal double. The base colour is mid pink but has very subtle lavender and salmon pink shading. The growth is somewhat open. Flowers mid season. E.G. Waterhouse (1954) Medium sized light pink formal double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Also available with a light pink and white variegated flower. Elsie Jury (1964) Large deep pink full peony form. Medium sized open growing bush. May be trained as an espalier. Flowers mid season to late. Jury’s Yellow (1976) Medium sized anemone form. White with creamy yellow petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season. Water Lily (1967) Medium sized formal double. Bright light pink with darker toning. The petals have without doubt or question rolled edges. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season. Hybrids This catch-all group covers plants of indeterminate parentage and those that don’t fit into any of the other groups. Some authorities divide the hybrids by size, exceptionally separating out the miniatures. Baby Bear (1976) Miniature light pink single. A little densely foliage bush that is very standard for container growing. Flowers mid season. Baby Willow (1983) Miniature white single. Very distinctive weeping growth. When grafted it makes a good weeping standard. Flowers mid season. Cinnamon Cindy (1973) Miniature pale pink peony form. The central petaloids may be very pale pink. Upright willowy stems. Espaliers well. Flowers early to mid season. Cornish Snow (1950) Small white tinted pink single flowers. Very heavy flowering. Upright open growth. Flowers mid season. Itty Bit (1984) Miniature light pink anemone form. A densely foliaged low growing propagating bush. Flowers mid season. Jubilation (1978) Large mid pink rose form double. Occasionally has darker flecked flowers. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Mary Phoebe Taylor (1975) Very big mid pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season. Nicky Crisp (1980) Large lavender pink semi-double. Dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and proceeds over a long season. Night Rider (1985) Small deep red semi-double. Upright bush. Flowers mid season to late. Quintessence (1985) Miniature white single with conspicuous golden yellow anthers and white stamens. Mildly fragrant. Dense spreading growth. Very general as a container plant. Flowers early to mid season. Snippet (1971) Small pale pink semi-double. Eventually a dense compact bush but somewhat open when young. Flowers mid season. Tiny Princess (1961) Miniature semi-double to peony form. White to very pale pink with darker tints. Slow growing and may become rather open but occasional pinching back will create a neat low bush. Flowers early to mid season.
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