Find 150 Stems Of White Roses 31 2 @ Amazon.com
|
Named by Linnaeus in 1735 in honour of the Jesuit priest and naturalisti Georg Josef Kamel, Camellia is a genus originating principally from China but with a range covering a huge area of South East Asia. The precise number of species is not clear but it is someplace around 100. Camellia is an indispensable mercantile genus because of one species, Camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea is made. Most gardeners recognise two main groups of camellias, the autumn flowering and the spring flowering. However, it is not rather that simple. Whenever a genus of a lot of species (such as There are four main camellia groups: Japonica, Reticulata, Sasanqua and Hybrid, with a number of littler groups based around less mutual species, such as Camellia hiemalis, and inter-specific hybrids, such as Camellia × williamsii (Camellia japonica × Camellia saluensis). It’s a ordinarily kept faith amidst gardeners that Sansanquas are the autumn flowering camellias while the rest are spring flowerers. That’s not genuinely true, surely the Sasanquas are commonly the initial to bloom but with careful selection and siting it is possible to have more or less uninterrupted flowering from early autumn to late spring. Cultivation Camellias are oftentimes related with rhododendrons and azaleas and, while not that closely related, they surely prefer similar conditions. This is not at all surprising as they come from similar climates and may many times be found growing together in the wild. Camellias are in general less tolerant of uttermost cold than the hardiest rhododendrons but they are by no means fussy plants. Most species and hybrids are hardy all around the country, necessitating no shelter except perhaps in very cold winter areas, and the summers here are To get the best out of your camellias it is indispensable that you follow the same soil preparation methods as commended for rhododendrons. Camellias have more inviolable and deeper origins but they still require the same moist, humus filled, loose, well-oxygenated topsoil if they are to thrive. Likewise regular mulching is always beneficial. Camellias prefer a neutral to acid soil and will not tolerate the extreme acidity that most rhododendrons will. On highly acid soils the addition of little amounts of dolomite lime will not only increase the pH but will grant posing no difficulty uptake of nutrients. Once traditionalisti most camellias seem to get by rather well without too much attention but they are subject to the same chlorosis difficultnesses as rhododendrons so occasional supplementary feeding is recommended. Containerised camellias will have to be fed regularly as they are far more subject to deficiencies due to their fixed root spread. Camellias do best in sheltered positions in light shade or where they get only morning sun. This is not so much for the plant’s sake as the flowers’. The plants will tolerate exposed sunny internet sites but the flowers won’t. Too dense shade will promote lank growth and reduce flowering. Too sunny and the flowers will burn and drop prematurely. A website that is exposed to strong winds will dramatically shorten the life of any flowers but specially camellias. Disbudding Many camellias set huge quantities of flower buds that many times result in densely crowded little bloom. Thinning out the more densely packed and weaker flower buds will fabricate more spectacular blooms of better shape. Propagation Camellias are not always easy to propagate without specialised equipment. Seed germinates well but is of fixed usefulness as it may only be employed to raise new cultivars or to propagate species. Selected forms will have to be circulated vegetatively. Cuttings will have to be taken just as the new growth is hardening off. This is ordinarily around the end of November. Take new tip growth cuttings that are with regards to 100-150 mm long and follow the procedures outlined in the propagation chapter. The cuttings may take various months to strike without mist or bottom heat. Layering is very successful with camellias but ofttimes there are no subsections close sufficient to ground level to layer. In such cases aerial layering is a reliable, if slow, method. Occasionally a camellia cultivar fails to carry out well on it is own roots. In which case grafting onto a more vigorous stock may be necessary. Standard camellias are closely always developed by grafting rather than merely training a general stem. Cleft grafting is the ordinary method used, however, saddle grafts and side wedges will work too. Budding is seldom applied but there is no reason why it shouldn’t be successful. Specialised methods, such as seed grafts, are from time to time employed but these are for authenti fanciers that are prepared to experiment. Pests And Diseases Camellias are comparatively impairment of normal physiological function free but you may at times encounter one of the following problems. Viral diseases These are rather mutual amongst camellias, in fact, viruses are now and again deliberately introduced to obtain variegated flowers and foliage. The most mutual virus shows up as a bright yellow leaf margin. This is known as virus induced variegation. In minor cases it does little hurt but it may weaken a plant by reducing the amount of available chlorophyll. Virus sicknesses cannot be cured, once infected the plant remains infected. Phytophthora root rot This sickness affects some types of plants, specially those that prefer acid woodland conditions. This fungus impairment of normal physiological function kills the plant’s roots, which leads to the characteristic wilted aspect and in the end death. Generally the sensations or changes are not apparent until too late. Prevention through ensuring that the soil is well drained is the best method. Plants may on occasion be saved by washing off the soil, removing the dead roots, completely wet with fungicide then replanting in a well-drained position but it’s seldom worth the effort. Leaf gall A fungal sickness similar to that seen on evergreen azaleas occasionally occurs on camellias. It causes a thickening and distorting of the leaves, which is at long last become white with fungal spores. Remove any affected leaves and spray the plant with a fungicide. Do not concede affected leaves to drop near the plant. Petal blight This fungal sickness cause the flowers to degenerate to watery mush and may harm much of the crop. Control with fungicides prior to bud break and remove any fallen petals from around infected bushes. Die-back This may be a serious, even fatal, problem. The foliage of young sections wilts and browns then the stem begins to die back from the tip. A canker formulates that at last ringbarks the stem causing it is death. If the cankers disseminate to the main stems the plant may die. Treatment with fungicides will aid but is not exclusively successful. Overcrowding, poor drainage and poor ventilation may all bestow to this problem as well as making the disseminate of the impairment of normal physiological function easier. Camellias are in general not attacked by any specially strange insect pests, just the run of the mill, aphids, scale, caterpillars, leaf rollers and thrips. The usual control measures are effective on camellias too. Bagworms may cause significant harm at times. The leaf covered silken bags (see illustration) are made by the larvae and the flightless adult females of the moth Liothula omnivora. The larvae feed from within the bag, which they carry around with them for shelter and camouflage. Hand picking is the simplest control, the use of insecticides is not warranted except in cases of severe infestation. Training Besides their normal bushy habit some camellias are suitable subjects for training. The most mutual forms are the ordinary and the espalier. Standards may be produced in two ways. The easiest is to select a young plant with a single straight stem and merely remove the lower foliage and any side shoots as they appear. Stake the main stem as it grows and once it has reached the desired height nip out the tip growth to induce the branching that will at long last form the head. The procedure may be speeded up by grafting but the mechanics are not as simple. Select a vigorous upright plant that will speedily develop the frequent trunk and graft your chosen cultivar onto it at the desired height. Cleft grafts are the preferent method for camellias but I have found side wedge grafts to be successful. Grafting is the only practical way to manufacture a weeping standard. Espaliering is just a matter of selecting an suitable plant and having the forbearance to wait long sufficient to see the results. There are various methods of training the subdivisions to achieve the best coverage but most camellias with thin pliable stems (primarily Sasanquas) may be espaliered with little effort. Remember though, camellias are not natural climbers, espaliers need to be secured to the structure versus which they are growing. Other special forms. Camellias may make effective hedges, either tightly clipped or grown informally. As might be expected of a genus that holds the tea plant camellias may withstand frequent trimming when actively growing. Some camellias are suitable for use as ground covers but commonly only while they are young. In time all but the most prostrate forms will develop into mounding bushes rather than true ground covers. Pegging the segmentations down as the plants grow is the only way to assure this doesn’t happen. Camellias in containers Camellias adjust well to container growing but they are quick to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Nothing looks less likeable than a gravely chlorotic camellia in a tiny pot. However, with regular fertilising and the right sized containers camellias will thrive and bloom to a great extent in pots. As with all container plants, do not forget that their roots are far less insulated from the elements than those of plants in the open ground. Make sure containerised camellias get regular water in summer and in cold winter areas move the containers to sheltered positions for winter to refrain from having the soil freeze solid. Flower forms Camellias are available in assorted dissimilar flower forms. The descriptions in this book are held as simple as possible but once in a while the technical terms ought to be used. The terms single, semi-doubleand double are intimate and somewhat self-explanatory but most of the following terms are peculiar to camellia cultivation. Anemone A style with big outer petals and massed little central petaloids. Peony (paeony) and informal double Large outer petals and littler loosely clustered central petals and petaloids. The more to a complete degree petalled flowers are known as full peony form. Rose form double A double flower that opens wholly to disclose the stamens, like a entirely blown rose. Formal double This flower type has perfectly arranged concentric circles of neatly overlapping petals. Some have the petals in a very distinctly specified spiral pattern. There are also rules governing the terms applied to describe the size of flowers but as most non-specialist gardeners find these to be more mixing up than utile they have not been strictly adhered to. Species and cultivars The following selection of species and cultivars includes those most popular for garden use or that have interesting or strange features. They are separated into hybrid groups. Species These are the most usual or influential of the species but they are not widely available in nurseries, most gardeners preferring the hybrids. Camellia chrysantha (China) A yellow camellia was a long sought after intention of plant breeders, consequently the basically white cultivars with optimistic names such as ‘Brushfield’s Yellow’. However, in 1980 a real yellow camellia was found in the Guangxi province of China. It flowered for the firstborn time in the West in 1984 and has since been the subject of great interest and speculation amongst camellia growers. It is a big species that may reach 5 m high. The big leaves are deep green and to a great extent veined. The bright yellow flowers are only in regards to 60 mm diameter but it is not the size of the flowers but their potential for hybridising that initially had breeders so enthused. Reasonably hardy but alternatively chooses consistent cool to moderate temperatures, intolerant of extremes. Camellia societies have a few plants of this species but even now it is not in general available through garden centres. Camellia forrestii (China, Vietnam) A huge shrub or little tree native with narrow elliptical leaves and little white flowers that are mildly fragrant. Early to mid season. Camellia fraterna (China) Grows to in regards to 5 m high. Small elliptical leaves. 25 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and prominent gold anthers. Slightly fragrant. Not altogether hardy. Flowers mid season. Camellia granthamiana (Hong Kong) Very rare in the wild; known, until recently, from just one plant found in 1955. It may be a natural hybrid rather than a unfeigned species. Grows to regarding 3 m high. Deep green to a great extent veined elliptical leaves up to 200 mm long. Creamy white flowers up to 150 mm diameter with massed golden stamens. Flowers early. Not totally hardy. Camellia hiemalis (Japan) Not known in the wild and probably a natural hybrid amid Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Grows to in regards to 3.5 m high. 30 mm diameter pale pink flowers with golden stamens. Small to medium sized elliptical leaves. Flowers early. Camellia kissi (North East India to Southern China) May grow as high as 12 m but commonly consideably smaller. Medium sized narrow leaves. Small white flowers that are normally fragrant. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia lutchuensis (Southern Japan including Okinawa) Grows to when it comes to 3 m high. Small leaves regarding 40 mm long. Very fragrant 50 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and gold anthers. Not always easy to grow and not totally hardy. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia japonica (Japan, Eastern China and Korea) The parent of a tremendous number of cultivars. May grow to 15 m high in the wild. Broad deep green elliptical leaves up to 125mm long. The flower colour is variable but is commonly red. Easily grown. Flowers mid season. There are assorted cultivated forms. Camellia oleifera (Northern India, Southern China and South East Asia) Grows to in regards to 7 m high. Medium sized elliptical leaves with little or no serrations. Small white flowers with yellow stamens and more or less twisted petals. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia pitardii (Southern China) Grows to with regards to 7 m high. Medium sized to a considerable degree veined leaves up to 100 mm long. Small white, pink or white flushed pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late. Camellia reticulata (Southern China) Extensively used in hybridising. grows up to 15 m high in the wild. Large wide elliptical leaves with prominent veins (reticulate). 75 mm diameter mid pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late. Camellia salicifolia (Hong Kong and Taiwan) Grows to in regards to 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical to oblong leaves with a very slight tomentum. Loose white flowers with white stamens. Mild fragrance. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia saluenensis (Southern China) Grows to when it comes to 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical leaves. 50 mm diameter white to mid pink flowers with little golden stamens. May be single or semi-double. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia sasanqua (Japan and Ryukyu Islands) Grows to regarding 5 m high. The leaves are around 55 mm long , commonly narrow and without doubt or question pointed. 50 mm diameter white to pale pink flowers with yellow stamens. Occasionally somewhat fragrant. Flowers early. Camellia sinensis (India to China and South East Asia) The tea plant is the most commercially necessary camellia. May grow to 15 m high but ordinarily held much smaller. Leaf size is variable; they are commonly around 125 mm long but in mild moist climates they may be up to 225 mm long × 75 mm wide, to a considerable degree veined. White flowers (occasionally pale pink), regarding 40 mm diameter with yellow stamens. Flowers early. Camellia transnokensis (Taiwan) An upright bush to in regards to 3 m high. Small bronze green leaves. Clusters of very little (25 mm diameter) white flowers with white stamens and golden anthers. Pink buds. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia tsai (Southern China, Burma and Vietnam) Grows to regarding 10 m high in the wild but normally far littler in gardens. 90 mm long shiny bronze green elliptical leaves. Slight weeping growth habit. Clusters of little white flushed pink flowers. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season. Not completely hardy. Sasanqua and Hiemalis A group of primarily early flowering plants (autumn to late winter) that is made up of varieties and hybrids of three species; Camellia sasanqua, Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis. Akebono Small deep green leaves. Single mid pink flowers. Excellent hedge or espalier. Bonanza Medium to big semi-double deep red flowers. Long flowering season. Medium sized plant, upright growth. Good in tubs. Bonsai Baby Small deep red double flowers. Low, somewhat disseminating growth habit. Chansonette Large deep pink double flowers with more or less ruffled petals. A densely foliage medium sized bush. Suitable for most styles of training. Cotton Candy Large soft pink semi-double flowers with somewhat ruffled petals. Strong growing but inclined to be rather open and gains from regular trimming to shape. Exquisite Large very pale pink single flowers with ruffled and lobed petals. Long segmentations make it well-suited to espaliering. Hiryu-see Kanjiro Jennifer Susan Soft mid pink loosely petalled semi-double flowers. Very densely foliage compact growth. Makes a good hedge or espalier. Kanjiro Often sold as ‘Hiryu’. Deep cerise pink single to semi-double flowers with lighter coloured centre. Dark green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mine No Yuki Medium sized white to cream semi-double flowers with ruffled petals. Loose pendulous growth habit. Plantation Pink Large mid pink single flowers. Very strong growing and makes a quick hedge. Setsugekka Large white semi-double with ruffled, somewhat incurving petals. Strong growing upright bush. Showa No Sakae Medium sized light to mid pink loose semi-double flowers. Distinctly weeping to horizontal growth habit. may be employed in hanging baskets. Sparkling Burgundy Small to medium sized deep pinkish red double flowers. Long flowering season. Vigorous grower. Suitable for most training styles. Yuletide Small bright red single flowers with prominent golden stamens. Long flowering season. Dense compact growth. Does well in tubs. Japonica The species forms and hybrids of Camellia japonica are amid the most ordinary and widely grown camellias. Also included in this group are the Higo hybrids. These often times ancient forms from Japan are not widely grown in New Zealand but a few are available. The following is a selection of galore of the most usual Japonicas. Ave Maria (1956) Pale pink medium sized formal double. Dense compact growth. Early to mid season. Bambino (1959) Small coral pink anemone form with well-defined petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season. Berenice Boddy (1946) Medium sized light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Flowers mid season. Betty Sheffield Supreme (1960) Large loose white or very pale pink double with petals edged in deep pink. A pretty picotee effect but rather variable. A sport of ‘Betty Sheffield’ (1949). A vigorous, yet compact bush. Flowers mid season. Blood of China (1928) Medium sized deep pinkish red semi-double to peony form. Often mildly scented. Strong grower but compact. Late flowering. Bob Hope (1972) Large deep blackish red semi-double. Very intense flower colour and deep green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mid season to late. Bob’s Tinsie (1962) Small deep red anemone form with a white centre. Upright, very dense and bushy. Flowers mid season. Brushfield’s Yellow (1968) Medium sized anemone form with white outer petals and creamy yellow petaloid centre. Strong growing but densely foliaged. Flowers mid season. C.M. Hovey (1853) Medium sized deep red formal double. Upright growth. Late flowering. Can Can (1961) Medium sized light pink peony form with deep cerise pink edged petals and veins. Upright growth. Flowers mid season. Debutante (around 1900) Medium sized light pink full paeony form. A strong growing densely foliage bush. Leaves may be a lighter green than most camellias. One of the most widely planted camellias. Flowers mid season. Desire (1977) Medium sized light pink formal double with deeper coloured petal edges. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season. Dolly Dyer (1973) Small bright red anemone form with a densely packed petaloid centre. A medium sized densely foliaged bush. Flowers early to mid season. Elegans Supreme (1960) Large deep pink anemone form with finely serrated petal edges. One of various sports of the old cultivar ‘Elegans’ (1831). Large wavy edged leaves. A strong growing but compact bush. Flowers early to mid season. Grand Slam (1962) Large deep red semi-double or anemone form. Slightly fragrant. Deep green leaves. A very strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season. Guest of Honor (1955) Large mid to deep pink loose semi-double to peony form. Upright densely foliaged bush. Heavy flowering. Blooms mid season. Guillio Nuccio (1956) Very big deep coral pink semi-double with prominent stamens. The petals have wavy edges. Strong growing and very popular. Flowers mid season. Also available in a white and red variegated flower form. K. Sawada (1940) Large white rose form or formal double. Dense bushy growth. Flowers mid season. Kramer’s Supreme (1957) Large bright red full peony form. Usually fragrant. Vigorous yet compact growth. Flowers mid season. Laurie Bray (1955) Medium to big light pink flowers that may be single or partially petaloid semi-double. Heavy flowering, tough and adaptable. Rather open growth that gains from shaping when young. Flowers mid season. Man Size (1961) Small white anemone form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush if shaped when young but may other than as supposed or expected tend to somewhat open growth. Flowers to a great extent around mid season. Margaret Davis (1961) Medium sized informal double. White with petals edged deep pink to orange red. Upright growth. Flowers mid season. Mark Alan (1958) Large deep purplish red semi-double or peony form. Narrow petals with a petaloid centre. Upright growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season. Midnight (1963) Medium sized deep red semi-double to anemone form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. Mrs D.W. Davis (1954) Very big bright pink semi-double. Densely foliaged vigorous upright growing bush. Flowers mid season. Nuccio’s Pearl (1977) Medium sized very pale pink flushed mid pink formal double. An beautiful ‘airbrushed’ colour effect that intensifies towards the centre and edges of the flower. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. Pink Pagoda (1963) Medium to big mid pink formal double. Slightly wavy edged petals. An upright bush. Flowers mid season. Prima Ballerina (1983) Medium to big semi-double. White base colour washed with soft mid pink. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season to late. Roger Hall (1979) Medium sized bright red formal double. A strong growing upright bush. Starts early and flowers over a long season. San Dimas (1971) Medium to big deep red petaloid semi-double. Dense compact bush. Flowers early to mid season. Tiffany (1962) Very big loose peony form. Soft mid pink with deeper tones. Vigorous yet compact bush. Flowers mid season to late. Reticulata Reticulatas are normally regarded as being less hardy than other camellias but most survive New Zealand winters unscathed. Barbara Clark (1958) Medium sized mid pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Starts to flower early and proceeds over a long season. Brian (1958) Medium sized deep pink semi-double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Buddha (1948) Large deep pink semi-double flowers with wavy edged petals. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season. Dr. Clifford Parks (1971) Large bright red flower. The form is very variable, it ranges from semi-double to peony to anemone form. Flowers mid season. Grand Jury (1962) Large salmon pink peony form. A big open bush that gains from pruning to shape when young. Flowers mid season. Lasca Beauty (1973) Very big light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower that is inclined to become a little open. Flowers mid season. Pavlova (1978) Very big bright red semi-double. A strong propagating bush. Makes a good espalier. Flowers mid season to late. Phyl Doak (1958) Medium to big pale pink semi-double. A dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and proceeds over a long season. Sugar Dream (1984) Medium sized mid pink anemone form. Upright growth, inclined to be somewhat open but gains from trimming to shape when young. Early flowering. Valley M. Knudsen (1958) Large deep pin semi-double to peony form. Strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season to late. × williamsii hybrids This somewhat diverse group of hybrids results from fertilising Camellia saluensis, or a hybrid thereof, with pollen from Camellia japonica. Anticipation (1962) Large deep pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season. Ballet Queen (1975) Large salmon pink peony form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush. Flowers mid season to late. Debbie (1965) Large bright mid pink semi-double to full peony form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. One of the most frequent cultivars. Donation (1941) Large mid pink semi-double with darker veining. Vigorous yet compact. Starts early mid season and proceeds over a long season. Dreamboat (1976) A huge formal double. The base colour is mid pink but has very subtle lavender and salmon pink shading. The growth is more or less open. Flowers mid season. E.G. Waterhouse (1954) Medium sized light pink formal double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Also available with a light pink and white variegated flower. Elsie Jury (1964) Large deep pink full peony form. Medium sized open growing bush. May be trained as an espalier. Flowers mid season to late. Jury’s Yellow (1976) Medium sized anemone form. White with creamy yellow petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season. Water Lily (1967) Medium sized formal double. Bright light pink with darker toning. The petals have distinctly rolled edges. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season. Hybrids This catch-all group covers plants of indeterminate parentage and those that don’t fit into any of the other groups. Some authorities divide the hybrids by size, specially separating out the miniatures. Baby Bear (1976) Miniature light pink single. A little densely foliage bush that is very standard for container growing. Flowers mid season. Baby Willow (1983) Miniature white single. Very distinctive weeping growth. When grafted it makes a good weeping standard. Flowers mid season. Cinnamon Cindy (1973) Miniature pale pink peony form. The central petaloids may be very pale pink. Upright willowy stems. Espaliers well. Flowers early to mid season. Cornish Snow (1950) Small white tinted pink single flowers. Very heavy flowering. Upright open growth. Flowers mid season. Itty Bit (1984) Miniature light pink anemone form. A densely foliaged low growing spreading bush. Flowers mid season. Jubilation (1978) Large mid pink rose form double. Occasionally has darker flecked flowers. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Mary Phoebe Taylor (1975) Very big mid pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season. Nicky Crisp (1980) Large lavender pink semi-double. Dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and proceeds over a long season. Night Rider (1985) Small deep red semi-double. Upright bush. Flowers mid season to late. Quintessence (1985) Miniature white single with conspicuous golden yellow anthers and white stamens. Mildly fragrant. Dense spreading growth. Very frequent as a container plant. Flowers early to mid season. Snippet (1971) Small pale pink semi-double. Eventually a dense compact bush but somewhat open when young. Flowers mid season. Tiny Princess (1961) Miniature semi-double to peony form. White to very pale pink with darker tints. Slow growing and may become rather open but occasional pinching back will manufacture a neat low bush. Flowers early to mid season.
7146 of 7263 people found the following review helpful. 1. Form-factor – Compared to the Kindle 3, this Kindle feels more compact, lighter and easier to hold. My hands wrap around this better than K3. Reading books for a few hours at a stretch will be easier on this device compared to the K3. It is the lightest such device I have used compared to all previous Kindles and other tablets. 2. Screen – I personally like the fact that there are no keys on the device and that keys come up on the screen when you need them. Delivers a better overall reading experience. However, navigating through the on-screen keyboard with the 5-way controller can be taxing if you need to do a lot of searching, and you might miss the full physical keyboard. I hardly search on the Kindle itself, I search for books on my laptop so this is a non-issue. 3. Price! – At $79, you can’t go wrong. Compared to buying paperback or hardcover editions, you will recover the cost of this in a matter of a few months because most Kindle content is priced cheaper than print editions (and you get it instantly, and can access it wherever you are). Not to mention all the free Kindle downloads available in the catalog. 4. Display – almost the same E-ink display at the K3. No glare no reflection. You can sit in bright sunlight and read it just like a book. Page turns seem a lot faster on this compared to the K3. Screen size of the Kindle 3, this new Kindle, and the Touch is exactly the same in size. 5. Wi-Fi – this can be a pro or a con (no 3G) depending on a user’s personal preference. If you travel often and would like to be able to download content anywhere without worrying about getting a wi-fi connection, you’re better off sticking with the K3 or waiting for the Touch/Fire. For me, 3G is not a major issue. 6. Text to Speech and Audiobooks – These two features are lacking in this device. I personally have never used these features on my K3. If you listen to audiobooks or TTS or music on your Kindle, again the K3/Touch/Fire might be better options. 7. Storage – this device can store 2GB which they claim is approximately 1400 books. For me, that’s a massive storage capacity and it will be years before I get close to that capacity. Again, if you download books occasionally and have a moderate Kindle downloaded content on your device, 2GB is plenty. Of course, think ahead and see how much you would expect to download in the coming 2 years (I am assuming the device will be outdated and replaced within this time-frame). 8. Battery life – too early to tell but Kindle battery life tends to be great. Specs state that the battery life of this device is 1 month compared to 2 months for the Touch or K3. 1 month is plenty (Android phones need to be charged every hour!). At least I know that if I’m going on a long flight, this device won’t need charging if I charge it up in advance. 9. Power adapter – this Kindle does not come with a power adapter, only a USB charging cable. You can either buy it separately for $8-10, or use your existing USB power adapter. Any USB adapter would work with the charging cable (previous Kindle versions, Apple’s portable devices, and most HTC phones, come with a standard USB power adapter that would work for this device). There are also plenty of $2-3 adapters available here if you search for USB chargers. Bottom line – the choice between this basic Kindle, the K3 Keyboard, the Touch, and the Fire is really a personal preference. This device itself is meant for the minimalist Kindle user who, like me, reads say a 2-3 books a month, wants a device comfortable to hold, and doesn’t need any fancy bells and whistles on the device. I guess it depends on what you use your Kindle for. If it’s just the basics, this is the perfect device to get. In my humble opinion, the choices: (i) If you have a DX or an old Kindle version, or if you don’t have a Kindle yet and are an average book-reader, this is definitely the one to get – baseline model that is affordable and is a pure e-reader. (ii) If you have Kindle 3 and don’t really need an upgrade, I recommend sticking with the K3, it’s a better device than this one in terms of features. If you do need to upgrade, the Touch is probably a better option because of all the additional features, at a small incremental cost. (iii) If you’re looking for the loaded full-on Amazon content experience with access to all the apps, streaming audio and video, and playing the “strangely therapeutic” Fruit Ninja, wait for the Fire! I sincerely hope this review helps you decide whether this Kindle is right for you. If you are still unable to make a decision, it may be worthwhile to wait for the Touch and Fire to be released, and see the reviews on those devices before making a final decision. 2808 of 2874 people found the following review helpful. There are a few things to know about this particular Kindle that can help you decide if it’s right for you… Here is a list of things to know about this Kindle. 1. You’ll be using an onscreen keyboard with the 5-Way Controller. This is not a problem for setting up WiFi and a little writing but if you are an avid note-taker or do a lot of writing with your Kindle, you might want to opt for the Kindle Keyboard. As for reading, and as a pure reading device. It is awesome… in fact, without the keyboard, audio, and other features I don’t need. This is actually the best one for someone like me who just wants to read. I’ve already successfully transferred my library, downloaded books over WiFi, and borrowed library books through the Overdrive Library eBooks System. My only small point of dissatisfaction is that there are so few good covers and accessories right now (though there ARE some available that look pretty good). All in all, I believe this is the BEST of all the Kindles currently available. Only consider others if you: Hope this helps someone make a good decision! (Brief update: I love this Kindle, but right now the scarcity of good, inexpensive covers for it is a little troubling. The Amazon made leather one with light won’t be available until November or so and there are currently no inexpensive ones to use in the interim. I’ll just have to use it gently for a month or so.) Update on cases: Checking the specifications for the Kindle, Nook Touch, and Kobo: It looks like the Kobo is about exactly the same size and the Nook Touch is slightly longer. If you need a case but can’t find one that you like yet, it may be worth a little hunting to see if a nook or kobo case or cover might fit the bill. 1004 of 1063 people found the following review helpful. If you are a little perplexed with all the various Kindle models and are wondering if this Is the Kindle for you, here are a few questions for you to consider… 1. Do you need text to speech capability or have the desire to listen to mp3′s on your Kindle? If you can live without that, then proceed. This Kindle does not have a speaker thus is not capable of text to speech or playing sounds of any kind including mp3′s. 2. Is color important to you? This is not a color Kindle, it is gray-scale. If you are mostly wanting to read books then this will work for you exceedingly well. The e-ink screen is gorgeous, sharp and provides the ability to change font size, font face and line spacing. It even displays photos quite nicely, but in gray-scale. And you can even zoom in on images. 3. Is a physical keyboard a necessity for you? If you like to make notes and annotations while reading, you may want to look at another model Kindle that has a physical keyboard. Although this Kindle has a screen-based keyboard, it is tedious to type more than a few words or URL’s. It works very well for minimal typing but it’s not for you if you need more than that. 4. Is compact size important for you? Then this is the one to get. It’s thin, light and diminutive in size. Slips easily into a purse, pocket or inside pocket. It is so light which makes holding and reading with one hand for longer periods of time very easy. 5. Do you want to be able to occasionally use a web browser to access a web site? Well surprise surprise, you can do that on this Kindle. It’s an “experimental” feature but it works quite well. It’s been experimental for years, so I’m not quite sure why it’s still labeled experimental. But in any case you can visit websites, save bookmarks and it works. I also own the original Kindle with the SD card slot. Compared to the original Kindle, this new one is svelte. Thinner, lighter and notably, the e-ink on this new Kindle is vastly improved. In low interior lighting with gray overcast lighting outside, I’m able to easily read the Kindle. It is amazing how the screen almost glows, as if it were backlit. Of course it is not backlit and in fact will not work in the dark. But if you have a small reading light, that solves that problem. Otherwise in most other situations you will pleased with the excellent sharpness and clarity of the Kindle text. Page “turning” was very snappy to me especially when compared to my old Kindle. The black page flash that occurs on every page turn on the old Kindle does not occur nearly as frequently with the new Kindle. It now occurs after every 5 page turns. The fact that there is no physical keyboard means that this Kindle is absolutely the easiest to carry Kindle ever. Fits nicely in the hand and the slightly grippy surface makes you feel secure in holding it… it will not easily slip out of your hand. Setup was a breeze. The Kindle immediately identified my Wi-Fi network and as soon as I entered my password using the onscreen keyboard, I was good to go. Signal strength indicated very high on the Kindle and I did not notice any degradation in signal no matter how I handled it. As concerns the onscreen keyboard, it was easy and intuitive to use. I don’t expect to have to use it very often and for me I’d rather have no physical keyboard because that makes the Kindle smaller and easier to pack and go. You still get the typical Kindle tools, such as Highlighting, Notes, Annotations, Public Notes and a few others. You can upload PDF and TXT files and view them. You can easily transfer prior Kindle purchases to your new Kindle. You have the ability to create “collections” Once you’ve created a collection, you add items to it and this is a great way to organize many books. I have not had this model long enough to comment on battery life, but I’m sure that based on my previous Kindle and the specifications that it will excel. I believe that reading 1/2 hour a day will let you go a month before needing a charge if Wi-Fi is off. That’s pretty awesome. It is charged via the included USB cable and that can be from your computer or via an AC to USB power adapter, or in-car power port USB adapter. And don’t worry that the memory has decreased in this Kindle. There is still more than enough memory to hold well over 1000 books. And you archive books too which means they are just a click and a few seconds away from being downloaded back to your Kindle from the Amazon Cloud. Regarding the ads… they are not objectionable. In fact (don’t tell this to the advertisers) I didn’t even notice that there was an advertisement on the home screen until I deliberately looked for it. It takes up just a small portion of the bottom of the screen and is no taller than an inch in height. I don’t know for sure whether all ads are the same size but the one I’m looking at is very unobtrusive. The screensaver ads are full page and don’t bother me at all. And of course, you may just end up getting a good deal on something. I LIKE the ads. Just today I got a couple from an ad that saves me $5 on a $10 Amazon purchase in addition to my choice of a selected list of Mystery/Thriller books for only $1. Love the deals! I think Amazon has another winner on its hands with this ad-supported Kindle. You just can’t beat it for reading and I’m so glad I got it. If you have any questions please leave a comment and I’ll do my best to answer them. UPDATE: 10/16/2011 – I had the opportunity to compare the display of my new Kindle with that of a friends who had a Kindle with keyboard. I’m not sure how old his is, but his display actually had a somewhat lighter colored background which made the legibility slightly better in my opinion. I was quite happy with the clarity, sharpness and contrast of my new Kindle until I compared with him. Now I’m a little conflicted. It’s still great, don’t get me wrong, But it’s not an improvement necessarily over the previous generation as far as I can tell. It’s also possible that there are variations in the e-ink display depending on the luck of the draw. I may question Amazon about this and will report back here if I do. I’d still get this in a heartbeat, but just wanted to let you know about the contrast issue. UPDATE: 10/17/2011 – There is a new firmware update for the Kindle that addresses the page refresh issue. The new version is 4.0.1 If installed, you will see an additional option in the Settings panel on page 3 called “Page Refresh.” This allows you to have the Kindle refresh the page at each page turn (the screen flashes black briefly.) Otherwise the Kindle will not refresh the page until after each 5 page turns. UPDATE: 10/19/2011 – I called Amazon Kindle Support to discuss the screen darkness issue I mentioned above. They said they’d send a replacement which I’ve just received. I’m happy to say that the screen background is in fact -slightly- lighter in color on the new Kindle I just received. I’m happy and probably would have still been happy had I not replaced it. But at least I am psychologically satisfied now. The difference in background color was extremely subtle so I wouldn’t worry at all about it if you are happy with your newly purchased $79 Kindle. However there do seem to be some circulating that are more obviously darker and if yours is one of those, then contact Amazon. UPDATE: 12/6/2011 – Wow, the way these specials offers are going, this Kindle is going to end up being free. I just got another $10 Amazon gift card for $5 the other day. Plus a free Audible Audiobook and 50% off a Kindle cover. Loving the special offers. |
Fantastic device – pick your Kindle!